Have you ever experienced hotel whiplash?
In one trip to Paris and London (less than 2 weeks) I stayed in 4 different accommodations: 3 very different hotels and a private room in a host’s house. By the end of the trip, I couldn’t quite remember which bed was which.
It could have been the moving between types, and going from high end to moderate end rooms and back. Variety can be good on a trip, but too much variety can just be more tiring.
Here’s how my trip broke down:
Paris:
Arrived in Paris, went directly to the Four Seasons George V Hotel.
Walked into the beautifully decorated marble lobby with masses of white orchids and flowers. There aren’t any places to sit in the main lobby area. There are a few benches in the next space, but this lobby is for coming and going, not for resting.
The reception desk is to the left. I was greeted warmly and advised of the time my room would be ready. Since I had just gotten off the plane from the US, they graciously allowed me to use a spa room to freshen up. After that I had lunch in Le Bar, a cozy wood paneled room with excellent and unobtrusive service. My room was ready after lunch. It (#541) was lovely in shades of pale blue gray and cream. My luggage was in my room when I arrived. The room had an entry hall with coffee machine, tea making supplies and mini bar. The large room contained a King-sized bed, writing desk, reading chair. I enjoyed room service dinner. Of course there was a robe and slippers. The bathroom was large with a separate tub and shower. And a TV in the bathroom mirror. The bath amenities were large bottles of Bulgari products. My name was on the main TV with a welcome message. That made me feel special.
Even though the room was a corner one, with windows facing two streets, it was extremely quiet. No road, hallway noises or adjoining room sounds came through. I enjoyed an excellent breakfast in Le Cinq Restaurant-egg white omelet, fruit salad, croissants and breads served on lovely yellow and blue china. As this is a popular luxury brand it attracts many international clients. I heard English and other languages in the public spaces. All staff members were friendly and smiling. The bed was extra comfortable and I slept well. For full disclosure, I was a guest of this hotel for the night and had a tour of the premises. My breakfast and lunch were paid for but my dinner was not. This hotel is a true luxury hotel and I felt very comfortable and pampered.
The next day I went to the Hotel Delambre, a Paris “3” star hotel in the 14th arrondissement near Montparnasse Tower.
This historic building has been renovated and retains its retro charm. There is a small lobby with couches and chairs and the breakfast room attached. The bedrooms are small, there are quirky hallways, and the elevator holds two people at most.
I had a superior room (#41) with twin beds pushed together, shower/tub combination, a good sized closet with 3 shelves on one end. There was a work space desk and chair and an adequate flat screen TV. There was also a small leather chair. The twin bed closer to the bathroom side had a large sag in the middle, but the bed further from the bathroom was better. After the first night I just slept in the other bed. The window was tall, with a tiny “balcony” but this was about waist height, so I couldn’t actually step out onto it. The window did keep out most of the street noise.
This room was 1/3 the size of the George V hotel, with many fewer amenities and an old fashioned hair dryer that is a just long hose with open nozzle at the end. All the staff were unfailingly polite and friendly, offering help with directions, etc. They did not provide extra service, however, as when one guest was switching rooms, she had to move her luggage herself.
The breakfast buffet was adequate: there were hot scrambled eggs, yogurts on ice, a few crepes in a dish, cereals and pastries. Nothing cooked to order and you had to pay for the Nespresso coffee. Regular coffee was served in a carafe, along with hot water for tea and instant decaf coffee. I was at this hotel for 8 nights, being part of a group workshop with this hotel as its base. The best thing about the hotel is the location, as it is close to transport (bus and subway), has lively cafes, shops, and a market. It is a great residential neighborhood and I would definitely stay in that area again. It is close to the Montparnasse Cemetery and the Jardin du Luxembourg, both great places to walk.
London:
After Paris I arrived in London and went to my private room in a host’s house in Queen’s Park, about 20 minutes northwest of central London. I booked this room on one of the popular websites.
The house was one of the older terrace houses on a quiet street, 10 minutes walking distance from local shops and the underground. The downstairs was very comfortable, with large kitchen/eating area and 2 living rooms. My room was up one level, with a window over the back garden. This room was smaller than my room at the Hotel Delambre, as the queen-sized bed took up most of the room. There was a small chest of drawers, but no desk or chair. The bathroom was larger than the Delambre, but only had a shower enclosure, no tub. The room had 2 closets, but one was full of the owner’s things. I felt like a house guest at a relative’s, which is what these types of stays are all about. My first night was here, then I left most of my luggage to head into the city for a 2-night stay at The Savoy, and was back at the private home for 2 more nights to end my trip. While I liked the house and the host a lot, and would definitely recommend Queen’s Park as a base for London, I’m not sure I would choose this option again.
The Savoy Hotel-London
I was thrilled to be offered the chance to spend two nights as a guest of The Savoy Hotel, a true London icon, (and the first luxury hotel in Britain) and also went on a hotel tour. The lobby is wood paneled and has many comfortable couches and chairs. The check in area is off the lobby, out of the way of the comings and goings. You sit at a desk to check in and you feel very welcomed and special during the process. They will send you a text when your room is ready, so you can go on about your day if needed. I was going on a city tour, so I left my bag at check in and it was in my room when I got back later in the day.
There are Edwardian style rooms on the Thames River side of the building and art deco style roomson the Strand side of the building. My room was on the art deco side, all browns and golds. My queen bed was quite comfortable, and the room had a small desk and chair, and a corner banquette seating area. There was a large armoire, a small entry hall with the tea making supplies and mini bar, and comfortable bath tub with shower. Robe and slippers and also an umbrella in the closet. There is a speaker in the bathroom connected to the TV so I could continue to listen while I was in there. And there was a personalized welcome message on the TV for me-another way to make me feel special.
One interesting detail is that the hotel archivist (yes, they have an archivist on staff) puts photos of famous people in the rooms where they have stayed. My room had a photo of Charles de Gaulle! Granted, this was cool, but also a little creepy, so Mr. CdG was turned away from the bed….. Now if I’d been in the room where George Clooney or Humphrey Bogart stayed I might have let them watch me sleep.
I enjoyed a room service breakfast that was huge and delicious. Don’t miss the American Bar, a lively place with music in the evenings.
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After my Paris and London stays, I realized I don’t often stay in so many hotels in one trip. I have been on tours where we move from hotel to hotel but when I’m traveling independently, it’s easier to pick a level of service and/or price point and stick with that while on vacation. On the other hand, it’s nice to mix things up a little bit, too. Coming back to the private home after my stay at the Savoy was a little like leaving fairy tale land and re-entering the “real” world. I felt the same way after coming to the Hotel Delambre after a night at the George V. I have also rented an entire apartment for a European city stay and that adds another type of accommodation to the mix. It was fun to try out all these different types of beds and spaces and learn what worked for me and what didn’t. I know it’s not always possible, but staying at least two nights at a hotel is more relaxing than staying just one night and moving on.
